In 



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Doublet 

and 

Pose 




IN DOUBLET 
AND HOSE** 



Being a homily on gentlemen's 
wear, with considerable inform- 
ation about the present and 
future modes; the manner of 
their making, and when worn 




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" Nothing is thought rare 
Which is not new, and follow' 'J; yet we know 
That what was worn some twenty years ago 
Comes into grace again" 



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CHICAGO, 1896 



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COPYRIGHT, 1896, BY 
LINCOLN BARTLETT CO. 



PREFATORY 

THERE can hardly be any controversy over the state- 
ment that Americans of the present day are devoting 
more time and attention to matters of dress ; partic- 
ularly is this true of the inhabitants of the western 
states. Eastern people have been looked upon, because of their 
wealth and consequent leisure, as being somewhat in advance 
of their western cousins as to the question of taste in dress, 
and, while this may be true, the reason for such a condition, 
if it exists, is readily discerned. 

Since early in the 1 7th Century the inhabitants of the east 
have been accumulating wealth. This wealth brought 
leisure to the possessor, and together permitted him to 
cultivate every human refinement ; not the least of which is 
that of dress. 

Western people have busied themselves during the past 
half century in tilling the soil, building cities, establishing 
railroads, starting mills and factories and educating their child- 
ren and were far too much occupied with the struggle for 
existence to devote much time to luxurious living. 

Refined people there were among them in large numbers 
and they left as a heritage to their progeny, besides that re- 
finement, the wealth to cultivate and develope it. 

The highest refinement in manners or clothes is not esti- 
mated according to geographical lines. The well dressed 
man of this longitude should be no different from that of an- 
other. There is one standard for Chicago, for New York, 
and for San Francisco. 

Men and women of taste do not need to be told what to 
wear nor when to wear it, though this little book may fall 
into the hands of such people. 

We receive in our mail every week hundreds of letters 
asking our opinion as to the propriety of wearing this or 



that — asking us what is correct for almost every conceivable 
occasion. To facilitate the answering of so many questions, 
and to promote the study of correct dress, we publish this 
homily. 

We give a synopsis of each separate article of men's fur- 
nishings, telling when it is worn, how made, and the tabric 
used for the present and the coming seasons. 

Our long experience in catering to men's wants in dress 
and the happy results of that effort, we believe, give us the 
right to speak authoritatively on the subject; being authority 
the information here given may be considered correct — im- 
mutable. 




" Use doth breed a habit in a man t * 



CHAPTER I. 

BESIDES being generous and honest and kind, it 
is man's great duty to society to not only keep 
his body clean, but to cover that body with proper 
apparel for the season, the hour, and the occasion. 
A man's character, taste and refinement may be estimated, 
in part, from his conversation and manners j but not until 
the measure of his taste in dress is taken into account, can 
the ultimate result be reached. A man may have correct 
theories about dress, but it is required that he manifest these 
theories in his own raiment. 

Not only do the clothes worn by man indicate his charac- 
ter, taste, and refinement, but one may mark by his idiosincra- 
sies of dress, — the lawyer, the preacher, the judge, the liter- 
ateur, the actor, the artist, the business man, and so on to 
the end of the category. 

No rigid rule can be laid down for the proper outfitting of 
all beings, because the stature and girth of the human form 
are so varied. By classifying them into young, middle-aged, 
and elderly men, the task of correctly dressing them is 
robbed of many of its perplexing features. To separate 
these into sub-classifications, there are men of high and low 
stature, and the lean and the corpulent ones ; then the task 
becomes still easier of properly fitting them for the dress of 
morning, afternoon, and evening, for the ordinary duties 
and customs of every-day life. These occasions comprise 
the time spent in one's apartments, on the street, at recep- 
tions, in the theatre, in travel, and in out-door sports gener- 
ally. * 

Young men are allowed more latitude as to colors and 
styles than their older brothers of the other two classes, 
but as these young men advance in years, their tastes run to 
more modest clothes, though none the less rich and beauti- 
ful because of their plainness. 



u Thy clothes are all the soul thou hast. 



There is a special outfit in men's furnishings for morning, 
afternoon and evening, for negligee, traveling, hunting, fish- 
ing, etc. 

As athletics and sports are becoming more a factor in our 
life year after year, it is essential that appropriate garments be 
made for each of these various pastimes. The English have 
for many years been preeminent in sporting matters, but 
they are giving way to the superiority of the American 
athletes, as was evidenced in the contests in New York during 
the past summer season. 

While we acknowledge that London sets the pace in 
men's fashions, yet it remains for us to accept or reject them, 
and it is in this art of selection and discrimination that the 
American again excels. 

In the matter of dress there is a wide opportunity for the 
exercise of individual taste for most of the occasions except 
that for evening dress wear. In this the laws are so rigid, 
and the strict adherence to those laws so imperative, that all 
individuality in taste is as completely submerged as is in- 
dividuality in character by the modern tendency toward re- 
finement in manners. There is only one evening dress 
for young, middle-aged, and elderly men. The edicts gov- 
erning it are inexorable. Not so unrelenting are the rules 
for dress when one indulges in the promenade during the 
late afternoon. Here some little individual taste is permis- 
sible, though its extent is limited. 

The attire for business, and for informal occasions be- 
tween morning and evening admit of a wide range of per- 
sonal selection, and for them one is almost overwhelmed with 
the variations of colors and patterns in forming a happy tout 
ensemble* The man of gentle blood strives to get as far 
away from the Chimmie Fadden idea in his outward appear- 
ance as he possibly can. He is not conspicuous. He 
dresses richly but plainly. There is nothing of the drum 
major about him. If he is remarked on the street it is only 

6 



u Still to be neat, still to be dresl, 
As you tvere going to a /east," 



because the observer sees that striking, quiet air of happy 
coalescence in clothes which always distinguishes the well 
dressed man. 

If a man is well fitted with articles of tasteful apparel, he 
should, providing he does not employ a valet, spend sufficient 
time on the care of his clothes to keep them bright, fresh, 
clean and shapely. His shirts, his collars and cuffs, his 
neckwear for the various occasions, his under-dress, should 
all be laid away in drawers selected for each where they 
may be found readily and in peifect condition. The under- 
wear should be hung up where pure air may reach it. 

The neckwear should be carefully folded, and when it be- 
comes wrinkled a hot flat-iron should be drawn over it. 

We frequently see a man whose entire make-up is pleas- 
ing to the eye 5 he is not over-dressed, but faultless in every 
detail. This man is the one who not only displays taste in 
his dress, but he knows where to buy. He is the man who 
drops into the shop now and then to have a chat with the 
haberdasher. He absorbs the ideas of his furnisher, perhaps 
unconsciously. He sees many an article a score of times 
before he decides to buy it. He sees the various articles of 
his costume with their bits of color in their relation to other 
kindred articles he wears. He becomes educated in the har- 
mony of color, He is less apt to make mistakes in buying 
than the man whose only visit to the shop is one of imme- 
diate necessity, where the exquisite vestments of man's dress 
are displayed in artistic profusion. He discovers that it costs 
no more to dress in taste than to dress out of it. He finds 
that the salesmen are a great help to him in making his 
purchases. 

7 




"Fashion, the arbiter and ruler of light, 



CHAPTER II. 

" The hand that follows intellect can achieve" 

NATURE fits all her children with something to do, 
and she requires of these children that they do that 
something well. If one is satisfied to be " no one 
knows who," he is quite sure to possess neither 
wealth nor the respect of his fellow men. To lead the van 
in any walk of life a man must first assiduously apply him- 
self to that particular calling in which he desires to excel. 

In the study of dress the thorough man harps on the 
strings of correctness, of harmony, of beauty. He knows 
that every white has its black. His creations are above the 
vulgar flight of meniality. His originality provokes origin- 
ality. Thought is the wind and knowledge the sail that 
carries him far beyond the buoy of mediocrity. When a 
man has found that work — that life purpose — which is laid 
out for him, it may be one thing, it may be another; but 
whatever it is, he should be satisfied, that he may excel in it, 
The careful shop-keeper gains his knowledge through his 
zeal to please his patrons, because through his zealous work 
he places himself in a position to know. He forms the habit 
of pleasing There are scores of men who have not the 
genius, who go on day after day striving to make ugly things 
look fair 5 as well might they try to move the pyramids of 
Egypt. The painter with his brush, the sculptor fashioning 
his clay, the lawyer before the bar, the surgeon with his 
scalpel, must have, besides years of experience, that genius, 
that adaptability, that love for his chosen calling, which 
guides his mind in the direction of progress; none the less 
is this true of the man whose province it is to clothe us in 
fine raiment. 

The stuff one sees in most of the men's furnishing shops 
now-a-days is something between a hindrance and a help to 
correct dress 5 but when one gets into the right place he sees 

8 



finery that has the proper ring to it, timely stuff for the sea- 
son — a little bit better than the best that is shown by others; 
there are happy, bright articles to delight his soul, if he be 
an appreciative man. There is a little tale about taste and 
harmony in everything he sees. He feels that peculiar air 
of superiority about the place which only the right place can 
have. He decides at once that he need not forsake Chicago 
for London or Paris to secure what is correct, because this 
store has it. Indeed, it is only across the street from those 
centres of fashion. It is in constant close touch with them. 
It is notified when anything new is produced. It imports 
direct ; — has it as fast as modern methods of transportation 
will bring it over. This shop produces simultaneously m 
Chicago styles that Paris and London give to the world. It 
has the extremes of fashion always for the man who wants 
the latest. Its managers are alert, quick to act, and never 
allow a patron to leave the establishment, whether he wants 
this extreme style or that one. 

Because the dealer who has been supplying you cannot 
give you everything you desire, do not presume that all 
dealers are of like calibre. That man is of the old 
school. Little does he know, and less does he care, for that 
which is being done in Europe. The man who watches the 
creators of new modes, and secures their productions early, 
is the new, modern merchant, who gives you pertinent sug- 
gestions, who lends you his ideas gained from years of thor- 
ough study in his calling. He is the one to whom you 
should pin your faith. His judgment and decisions are ab- 
solute, supreme. 



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CHAPTER III. 

ON THE VARIOUS ARTICLES OF MEN'S FURNISHINGS. 

"Stitch! Stitch! Stitch! 
In poverty, hunger, and dirt, 
And still with a voice of dolor us pitch, 
Would that its tone could reach the rich. 
She sang this song of the shirt" 
ry% HE DRESS SHIRT is invariably worn with 
the evening dress suit, and as an adjunct of 
this suit it has no substitute. To fit perfectly 
it should be made to your measure. An ill- 
fitting garment of this kind is apparent to the 
observer, as such a broad expanse of the bosom 
is open to view Being worn on happy occa- 
sions, one can hardly participate fully in 
them with an obstreperous shirt which every 
now and then provokes him to swear under his 
breath. It is made now with cuffs and col- 
lars attached, in various widths and lengths 
of bosom, which open in front of course, and 
with a leaning toward a fine white em- 
broidery on that edge of the bosom 
which laps outside. The very latest evening dress shirt 
worn by the European leaders has a colored embroidery on 
the edge, though whether this will be accepted in America 
or not remains to be seen. Some of the best dressed men 
suggest the making of the dress shirt with only cuffs attached 
on account of the severe treatment the shirt receives in the 
laundry. 

It should be properly starched, ironed and finished with 
the domestic or dull finish. The body of the dress shirt is 
now made of French batiste, a light weight, soft fabric, 
either woven plain or with a thin white satin finish stripe. 
Plain white cambric is more durable and is also used. 




10 



FANCY" Are worn for business and leisure when one is not 
SHIRTS required to be dressed up, and are permissible on va- 
ried occasions for informal day wear. They are 
made to your measure in endless varieties of plain and col- 
ored, woven and printed, fabrics of cambric, zephyr, cheviot, 
and Oxford cloths. The style of making them, and the 
finish of the bosom is constantly changing with the moon ; 
consequently it is impossible to lay down any rule by which 
to be guided on these questions. The extreme patterns are 
fancy wide stripes, three inches apart, with the bosom stripe 
of one color, and that of the shirt body of another color. 
The bosoms are now made short. 

The shirt with the plain white body and colored bosom 
and cuffs is not the correct thing j it is an economical but 
questionable substitute for the one with colored body and 
bosom, and is a creation of the " hewers of wood and draw- 
ers of water,"" who unfortunately attempt to make clothes 
for the public. The shirt made as above will do very well 
for a "would be " — the fellow who wears a silk hat with 
tan shoes and a sack coat. 

The fancy colored shirt to be correct must be fancy in 
body, bosom and cuffs. The garment in its entirety may be 
of one pattern, or the bosom and cuffs, which should be at- 
tached, may be of one fancy pattern, and the body of a diff- 
erent pattern, but the colors and patterns must harmonize in 
the case of the latter mode. Some very swagger fabrics 
are shown in the piece from which these shirts are made. 
Seasonable colors are delicate shades of brown, purple, and 
old golds. They are very high novelties, entirely original 
in design, and made by the best looms in Great Britain, 



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" O fair undress, best dress ! it checks no 'vein, 
But every flowing limb in pleasure drowns, 
And heightens ease <with grace" 
NEGLIGEE Are not worn with diamonds, nor when calling, 
nor with the frock coat, nor with the silk hat ; 
but for outing and day wear. The man guilty 
of an infraction of these rules is certain to receive adaquate 
punishment. All hail to the individual who invented this 
style of shirt. It is an inestimable help to comfort on the hot 
days of summer, for business and outing, when one desires 
to be free and easy. 

The style for the season of '96 will be somewhat different 
from that of the past season 3 soft fronts will hold sway, 
which will have a centre pleat an inch wide, to be heavily 
lined with linen for starching. The materials from which 
the negligee shirts will be made are identical with those used 
in the fancy colored starched shirts. The cuffs will be 
attached, and of like material as the shirt, but the collar will 
be detached. Extreme styles in outing shirts will be made 
with straight standing collar to almost meet in front. The 
style of detached turn-down collar for wear with negligee 
shirts will be white linen, and ranging in height from the very 
low ones to those which stand higher than the ordinary 
standing collar. The height, of course, will be decided on 
the point of comfort by the wearer, according to the length 
of his neck and his proneness to prespire. The collar is 
entirely a matter of individual selection, however. 

Perhaps the "hottest stuffs" (if we may be allowed the 
expression) we show are in the specially made Oxford cloth 
to be cut into shirts for cycling and golf, as well as for other 
cold weather outing. The patterns are fancy, though very 
exquisite, both in color and texture. 

We not only make shirts for cycling and golf, but for 
fishing, hunting, and travelling ; and it might be stated 
here that all these special goods for shirtings are selected 



with the idea of appropriateness for the various uses for 
which they are intended ; these latter are made to measure 
from Ceylon flannel, a soft fabric with fancy stripes, 
as modest or as extreme as one desires. This peculiar 
material may be made with a linen neckband, thereby ad- 
mitting the use of the white linen collar. Such a shirt as 
this is quite the delight of the English tourist and sportsman. 

to 

" Skilled in the globe and sphere, he gravely stands, 
And with his compass measures seas and lands" 
BOATING The absolutely correct boating shirts are cut to 
SHIRTS., measure from heavy white "matt cloth," which 
resembles white duck trouserings. They are made 
with low turn-down collar and cuffs attached. This " matt " 
fabric is very soft and starchable. It is a particularly sens- 
ible shirt for boating. 

" Come, shall <we go and kill us venison" 
The special fabric made for hunt- 
* ' * ing shirts is called Bedford cord, 
and is particularly adapted for 
shirts to be worn at the hunt, on the moun- 
tains, and for travelling in cool climate,^ 
where an overcoat would be a burden, but 
where warmth is imperative in the shirt. The v 
correct shades in these are the dark brown and 
gray hunting colors. This shirt is made 
with large roomy pockets, having flaps 
which button over them. Large bone 
buttons are used throughout for fasten- 
ings. The cuffs turn back 
and like the collar, are soft I 
and of the same material as <^f$£^\^( 




the shirt body. The view of them in the shop windows con- 
jures up visions of the guns, the dogs, the game and all the 
other essentials of a pleasant hunt. 



CL UB ^ ne °^ t ^ ie f eatures °f our establishment, is the de- 

OUTFITS partment for making to order, in their respective 
colors, outfits for cycling, golf, polo, and other 
pastime clubs. The propriety of the fabric, the har- 
mony of color, the cut, the fit, and the general effect of the 
suits we make, are as near right as the intelligent effort of 
masters and artisans can produce. We have made complete 
outfits for many of the leading clubs in the country and have 
been consulted by them regarding the adoption of club 
colors. We are pleased at all times to be of service to clubs 
in this matter. Inquiries from clubs in other cities will re- 
ceive careful attention. 



GOLF 
COATS 




Are to be seen in the regular hunting combination of 
red with yellow cuffs. The knickerbockers for golf 
are of white duck and made to measure. This is the 

material used by all English sportsmen 

for this purpose. 



THE BICYCLE 
SUIT FOR y g6 



For cycling in the 
cool early spring the 
new thing in shirts 
will be of Calcutta flannel in all the 
bright colors, to button in front with 
large pearl buttons, and with a neck- 
band for white linen collars, and wrist- 
bands for white linen cuffs. It is a 
pretty shirt and will be much in favor. 

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CYCLING I* 1 cycling suits the checks and large plaids in 

SUITS . browns and greens will be popular, as will the 

homespun for midsummer. Brown linen crash in 
suits of cap, shirt, coat, and knickers will also have their de- 
votees for '96. 

w 

COLLARS AND The wearing of modish collars is imperative 

CUFFS f° r th e various occasions. They should be 

changed every day, as with the shirt. If 
one's neck is long, a high standing or turn down collar 
should be worn. If the neck is short the turn down for 
business, and the low standing collar for dress and semi- 
dress. They should be laundried with dull finish. If the 
laundry finishes your shirts, collars and cuffs with a gloss, you 
can remove it by rubbing a clean damp (not wet) towel over 
the glossy surface 5 this will produce the dull effect, and is 
the manner employed in the laundries which do this class of 
work. 

" At once amazed 
In all the colour of the flushing year.** 
This article of apparel allows a varied taste in 
its selection, and whatever the shape, it should 
be tied by the wearer and made to order The made-up- 
ready-for-wear affairs are marks of plebeanism, and are relig- 
iously tabooed by men of taste. They will do very well for 
the "gent." 

There are perhaps more individual violations of good taste 
in the wearing of neckties than in any other one article of 
dress. Hardly any punishment is severe enough for the man 
who persists in manifesting his patriotism by wearing a red 
necktie and a white collar with a blue shirt, or for the 
auburn haired"gent"with the torquoise cravat. The latter 

'5 



with a brown suit is about as atrocious a thing as a man 
could perpetrate on an innocent public, and to rub him with 
an oaken towel would be simply an act of retributive jus- 
tice. 

In ties for business, negligee or other wear there are a 
thousand and one shades, patterns and combinations in the 
prevailing shapes. Here one may indulge in bits of color to 
his heart's content. For winter, being the sombre season, 
the neckwear should be of darker colors and of heavier ma- 
terial than for summer. This is also en regie for rainy 
weather, in any season. In summer the time of gladsome- 
ness, when the birds sing, and the flowers bloom, light gay 
colors should prevail. 

vb 

ct-tti? r»D roc ft * s imperative that a gentleman should have at 
I Ha JJKJioo , . | i • i /• i 

r^r> /irr /i<rr least two dozen dress cravats, which tor the 

LKAvAi . . ,. , . , , . r . . . . 

season or 95 and 96, are made 01 plain white 

linen lawn, ribbed mulle, and French cambric. Being now 

made of washable material, a dress tie should be worn but 

once, then sent to the laundry. 

ej-TTp Commonly known as the string tie is made with 

rr ttk <rr/? enc * s ta P erm g toward the centre. It still holds 
the favor accorded it in times past, is a very saucy 
shape and much liked by men who dress well. New season- 
able patterns are shown in various colors to suit the most 
fastidious taste. These are made to order. 

The shape of the bow or club tie is diminishing in width 
and has square cut ends tapering to the center. The pre- 
vailing shape is the long slender bow. No matter how 
poorly the bow is tied by the wearer it is better from an 
artistic point of view than any that may be produced ready 
for wear in the factory. The well dressed man strives to 

16 



have his neckwear appear as carelessly tied as possible, 
scarf pin is never correctly worn with the club tie. 



May never be a substitute for the white lawn 

«f *rU oAirr cravat for full dress occasions. It is as great an 
BLACK BOW . _ . _ , . r , s , 

infraction ot the rules or correct dress to do so, 

as the wearing of a tall hat with a negligee shirt. The black 
satin bow has its duty to perform with the Tuxedo or semi- 
dress coat, and may be worn at the club, at gentleman's 
dinner parties, and at other functions where ladies are not 
present. 

So long as the plain white and black ties have each a sepa- 
rate service to perform, we would advise the reader not to 
wear those colors in neckwear for business or negligee, but 
to wear any other color which one's complexion will permit. 



crrrrj This is tied after the fashion of the four-in- 

DF fWlNVII T E nan d> but is not the same in appearance 
when tied as the latter, owing to its being cut 
from a different pattern. It is intended for business and 
day wear, and is made in a different shape from that of last 
season. The knots are made very much larger than for 
some years, and it is by far the most radical change in neck- 
wear for the fall and winter. 



Aonr\cr The large Ascot puffs to be worn with a pin, we dis- 
vr/IRF play in new soft silks of new colors in backgrounds 
of greens, lilacs, golds, and blacks, with large fig- 
ured designs of various colors, These are made to your 
order as are the De Joinvilles and all other shapes. 

17 




CLUB AND . . . This is a new tie which laps 
ASCOT STOCK twice around the neck and 
ties in a small butterfly bow. 
It is worn now by disciples of extreme fashion 
and is identical with the old fashioned Stock shape 
, of our ancestors which was wide in front. It is 
worn without a collar, though formerly it was 
not. It might be said here that there is a general 
tendency, in modern fashion for men to pattern 
after the modes of our forefathers. This same 
Stock is worn in Ascot shape principally for 
winter outing, skating, hunting and negligee, 
when no collar is worn. The materials are 
soft flannel in bright plaids and plain bright colors, 
among which are the old brown linen colors with white 
stripes and dots. 

For winter outing the first duty is to protect the body from 
the severity of the weather, and a man who skates or hunts 
is not properly dressed unless he wears the Ascot Stock 
made of wool, which fits closely around the neck 5 thereby 
keeping that part of the body warm. 

\Jb 

1 HE Is now being made reversible ; both sides 

FO UR-IN-HAND being alike, with tapering end shape, which 
is the only change from the old style Four- 

in-Hand. They are made in plain and fancy colors as usual. 

The wide " folded scarf" to be tied as a four-in-hand is the 

leading shape for the knot tie. 

* 

SUMMER . . The very latest thing for neckwear for the sum- 

NECKJVEAR mer season of '96 will be the linen crash cloth 

made m all the shapes then prevailing. These 

scarfs wash beautifully and will be made to tie by the wearer 

It is an exclusive style with our establishment. 

18 



P1VCP * n orc * er to ODtam something exclusive one should 
C77 K select and have made to order, in whatever shape 
fancy dictates, ties from some of the silks we show in 
large squares ; they are endless in variety and pattern, and 
nothing more exquisite could be found in London or Paris 
than these same silks. It is quite customary to have ties 
made to order of silk of your own choosing, and, too, with- 
out extra cost. 



" Give me thy gloves* Vll wear them for thy sake" 

GLOVES' Gloves should be worn on every clear day in 
autumn, winter, and spring. They keep the hands 
clean, and give one more of the air of the careful man than 
if he walks along with his ungloved hands jammed into his 
pockets. He must always wear them with full dress — in 
the ball room, where he is dancing with ladies dressed in 
delicate white gowns, else what havoc would he raise in a 
half hour were he to give his perspiring hands full sway. 
This season's gloves are shown in standard red tans which 
have held favor for some years. The backs of the reds, 
blacks, browns and slates are more and more heavily stitched 
in colors; though the stitching is not of the same color as 
the glove. The newest gloves are of very light shades 
with dark stitching ; and in slates, suedes, (or undressed) with 
white stitching. These gloves are for street dress, or busi- 
ness wear. The 
full dress gloves 
are of a cream or 
eggshell color 
stitched with 
black and laven- 
der, and the 
plain white suede 
(or undressed). 




DRIVING 
GLOVES 




Are of heavy red tan, with 

hands faced with an extra 

piece of very tough reindeer 

skin. The newest driving gloves are the welt 

grip drivers. The palm and fingers being 

cross-stitched. 



SKATING 
GLOVES.. 



Are hand- 
made, hav- 
ing a Scotch 

knit hand with leather palm and long wrists covering the 
coat sleeve to protect the pulse from the wintry blasts. It 
is a very sensible glove for the purpose. 



LADIES 1 
GLOVES 



VNDERWEAK 



They come in the red tans and light brown hickory 
shades for street wear, the weight remains the same 
as last season. Ladies' sleighing gloves are made 
of cheverette tan leather, with squirrel lining and long wrists, 
and in reindeer skin with a gray squirrel lining. 

it 

" In faith there is comfort in thy hosiery" 

For health man should change his underwear 
every day. If he cannot afford to do this he 
should at least not wear a suit two days in succession. He 
may do so by wearing three suits a week on alternate days. 
In summer more changes are required because of its atten- 
dant perspiration. Articles worn alternately have the advan- 
tage of an airing and rest, and wear longer. Dress trousers 
hang better over silk drawers \ or jean drawers worn over a 
light balbriggan will accomplish the same purpose. The 
cotton garment does not stick to the trousers as does the 
woolen one. 
In selecting underwear one cannot be over careful. He 
20 



should have shirts and drawers that fit the form snugly and 
which will not shrink by proper care in the wash. The qual- 
ity, finish and general character should be the best, and 
without fear of contradiction we can say that the underwear 
which holds supreme favor among well dressed men above 
all other makes, is that made by the London house of 
Allen, Solly & Co. The fat man as well as the thin one, 
the tall man as well as the short one, is able to find in their 
product the best in quality, the best in finish and fit, to be 
had anywhere. Their brown vicuna underwear comes in all 
weights and sizes as does their natural wool, brown and bal- 
briggan, hand-made lisle, and fancy lisle and balbriggan. 

The fabrics for the underwear come in four weights from 
the house of Allen, Solly & Co., and every man who travels 
or is out of doors much in changeable climates should have 
these various weights in his wardrobe. 

Besides the underwear there is a flannel under-garment 
made to wear over the undershirt, for full dress, to make up 
for the difference of weight in the coat and waistcoat. This 
should be numbered among the habiliments of a well dressed 
man. 

For those who do not desire to pay the price of the very 
best, there are the varied standard makes, sold at more mod- 
erate prices, but it is doubtful economy to skimp on the 
underwear. 

* 

SILK ..... The competition in silk underwear is so great 

UNDERWEAR that the makers in this country manufacture 
poor grades and sell them to every dealer 
throughout the states. The quality is consequently becom- 
ing poorer and poorer every year. 

The "Brettles" pure silk underwear of the first grade, 
which we handle in 3, 6, 9, 12 and 20 thread weights, is a 
standard article and the urofit to the dealer is so small that 



they are not to be had everywhere. The dealers usually pre- 
fer to carry such goods as they make the most money on. 

CUSTOM MADE The „ Hnen mesh „ underwear which Is cut 
UNDERWEAR . . from p j ece g 0ods an d ma de to order is a 
light gauze round thread fabric and is par- 
ticularly adapted for summer wear. Nightshirts and pajamas 
are also made to measure from the same material. 

Men who know the worth of perfect fitting underwear often 
leave their measure three months in advance of the time they 
require it. In so doing they are enabled to have ideas of 
their own carried out in the making; then, too, one has the 
added benefits of our suggestions, as to fit, finish and for ex- 
ample such other details as a double chest, or a double back, 
and other reinforcements here and there. 

To have just the right thing one should have as many of 
the articles made to his measure as his purse will permit, 
however, if he is of a saving turn of mind he should not 
economize in this direction on his under garments. 

The latest improvement for stout men's drawers is a 
special abdominal band of heavy duck linen, and may be at- 
tached to new or old garments. 

The top band of the regular made drawers is cut away to 
the depth of the abdominal band ; then the latter is sewed 
on. It fastens In front by two straps and buckles instead of 
with buttons and button-holes. It will be popular with lean 
and corpulent men, but particularly so with the latter. 

"He will come to her in yellow stockings, and "'tis a colour 

she abhors, and cross gartered a fashion she detests, 

HOSIERS Allen, Solly & Co.'s hosiery is in line with their 

underwear. It is made mostly in the natural 

threads of wool and cotton fabrics in all colors — fancy and 

plain or with embroidered fronts, for summer wear. 



The fleece-lined bedroom hose are made to slip on in the 
morning when one is shaving or lounging about one's room. 
They are made in the same shape as the ordinary hose, are 
of white soft thick wool, and a very convenient article to 
possess. 



7HTSHIRTS Beautiful ones are °f s °ft fancy materials, 
such as zephyrs and batiste cloth. As a man 
spends about one-third of his time in bed, he should give 
some attention to it. It is, though, an article of apparel 
which receives less consideration from the wearer than most^ 
anything else he wears. The nightshirt should have ease 
and comfort ; it should be cut and made to measure, not too 
large nor too small. We make them with a shawl collar, 
which fits the neck perfectly, and with a full skirt. 



PAJAMAS 



We make them of the same material as the night- 
shirt. The pajama to be comfortable should be 
cut to fit, though not after the Japanese pattern with the 
arm-hole cut down to the waist. The pajama coat should 
be made so as to admit of use in lounging about the bed- 
chamber and for shaving. 




" Mans rich restorative, his valued 
bathS" 

BATHROBES The y are made from 
light crash-cloth in 

varied colors and patterns, as well as from 

light flannel cloths. One robe is made 

of cheviot cloth, a heavy cotton fabric, 

and admits of washing. It may be used 

as a bathrobe or as a lounging chamber 

23 



gown. It is made very fancy in bright colors, and bound on 
the edge with flat colored binding. 



HANDKERCHIEFS The handkerchief should be kept out of 
sight at all times. The newest ones are 
made of French batiste, plain white body, with fancy satin 
as well as silk borders. The demand for fancy bordered 
linen handkerchiefs seems to be diminishing, the batiste hav- 
ing supplanted them. The all-silk handkerchiefs are not in 
favor, unless it be a bright color for the overcoat, or the 
house coat pockets. The standard handkerchiefs come in 
plain white linen as heretofore, with medium and narrow 
hem ; in qualities ranging in price from the ordinary linen to 
the most expensive hand-woven linen made in the cottages 
of Ireland. A very thin and soft fabric of mulle is made 
especially for full dress wear; it comes in 
plain colors, in varied prices, and takes the 
place of the white silk handkerchief. The 
old fashioned large linen squares are shown 
for elderly gentlemen's wear, and for those 
who do not affect the latest fashions in 
small articles. 

it 

MUFFLERS ^ e mufflers, we make in large 
squares in a new shape. They 
are now seen in long stripes folded length- 
wise instead of crosswise as formerly, and 
may when desired be folded into neckties. 
Some are of heavy figured silk and satin and 
of rich cashmere Persian designs. The 
plain white mufflers are worn for full dress. 
They are made in basket weaved designs 
from washable thread silk. The best means 




24 



to obtain a muffler which will have some exclusiveness is to 
order it made from lengths of rich silk such as are shown for 
neckwear. 

We also make mufflers from fancy flannel squares hem- 
med and bound on the edge with satin or silk of different 
colors 5 these are worn for travelling, skating, sleighing and 
all other winter outings, and take the place of the little old 
time plaid shawl which our grandfathers wore. 



"With silken coats, and caps, and golden rings. 
With ruffs, and cuffs, and farthingales, and things*" 

This is an article which man is allowed to wear in 
JACKETS m S n colors. It is cut square in front with pockets 

low down on the side, The newest are shown in 
blue, black, green and wine shades, with modest Persian 
black figures on the ground colors as above. House coats 
are also made to measure with cuffs and collars of bandana 
silk squares. A very swell thing is made of an indigo blue 
English twill in white figures 
of vines. These silks are very 
new and made especially for 
house jackets. 

A velveteen jacket with 
Scotch plaid cuffs and collar 
and entire lining of same ma- 
terial, buttoned with silk frogs, 
is an exquisite creation for this 
season. 



*5 




HOUSE -^ re ma de a l so m short sack and gown lengths of 
COATS plain black and fawn camels hair with black silk 
cord edge and silk-lined sleeves. The latter are 
adapted for a more varied use than the ordinary housecoat. 

Mb 

" The day is cold, and dark, and dreary. 
It rains , and the <voind is newer <weary" 
The Box-cloth coats are the proper ones. They are 
COATS ma de of regular light weight overcoating and craven- 
etted to shed water. The seams are strapped and 
gummed as well as stitched, making them absolutely water- 
proof. A rain coat of Box-cloth in the light buff 
shades with pearl buttons makes an excellent driving coat. 
They come in two lengths, one extending to the ankle and 
the other just below the knee, and have the appearance 
of the English top coat. The black Inverness rain coat for 
evening wear is made with the full cape and may be worn 
outside an overcoat. 

* 

CANE^ AND ^ ne canes shown this season are plain in finish 
UMBRELLAS w * tn straight and crooked handles of Wang 
Hee and Penang woods, very m uch on the bam 
boo order. It is not car- 
ried when one is in even- 
ing dress, because the 
hands should be free to 
care for one's hat and top 
coat. At the opera there 
is the additional care of the 
opera glass, the fan, and 
the wraps of one's ladye 
fayre. It is never carried to 
business or on rainy days. 
The umbrellas are made in 
thesamefashionasthe cane 




The suspender is the support of the trousers, 
and should have no frills in the shape of new 
fangled devices. There is no limit to the style and quality. 
The Cantab is a hand-made suspender from Welsh, Mar- 
getson & Co., of London. Plain white hand-made sus- 
penders, with cotton web, in light weight, are the correct 
thing for full dress. For business and general wear they 
come in plain solid colors. 

* 

MEN'S The narrow English patent leather, triple enamel 
BELTS belt will be the thing for present outing wear. For 
summer there will be some new things shown which 
are now being designed. 

Ob 

LADIES' . . . Extremely chic 1, are the newest creations in silk 
SILK WAISTS and cotton shirt waists for '96. All these goods 
are imported direct by us for the reason that by 
so doing, we are able to show exclusive novelties not to be 
had elsewhere. The most beautiful fabric for the silk waist 
is called " Rhumchunda Silk.** It is of the finest twilled tex- 
ture, washable and a very costly fabric. The colors are 
varied — of dainty and delicate Persian effects, absolutely fast, 
and their combinations widely different from anything yet 
shown in fabrics for women's wear. It comes in piece 
" squares " two of which make a waist. " Rhumchunda " is 
already creating a furor among women, a sort of passion for 
waists as it were. 

They are the epitome of fashion, and every woman who 
sees them promises herself sufficient for her needs. The 
waists are made with a linen neckband and narrow silk cuff- 
bands. The cuffband will be worn with or without the 
white linen cuffs, which may be fastened if desired to the 
silk cuffs. White linen pleats starched will be buttoned to 
the front. 

27 



LADIES' ^e sn * rt wa * sts made of cambric for 

COTTON WAISTS women for the summer of '96 will be 
modelled after a French pattern which has 
passed muster in the gay capital. In this fabric we have an 
endless variety of Paris and London high novelties, made 
in countless patterns and combinations of color. The new 
idea in making them is with detached collars, and many 
women who have already placed their orders for the next 
season desire the cuffs detached as well. The latter are made 
very narrow from the same fabric as the shirt, but of differ- 
ent colors. 

Pique will be a favorite for the coming season in beautiful 
colors of flowers, vines and Persian .. patterns. 

LADIES' Ladies* belts are made from bright colored and 
g££ cf$ patent leathers. A belt with heavy brass buckles 

just wide enough to cover the dress band, is quite 
swagger, and will be the correct thing for the coming sea- 
son. 

LEGGINS This season, leggins for golf, skating, winter out- 
ing, and cycling, are hand-knit of heavy wool. 
They come in the season's popular colors, and are put on 
like the hose. Very new things are in heather patterns 
with Scotch tops, representing all the clans. 

Lincoln Bartlett Co. 



28 



CONTENTS 

PREFATORY 

THE SHIRT 

For Evening Dress . 

Colored for Business 

For Negligee 

For Cycling 

For Golf . 

For Boating 

For Hunting and Fishing 
CLUB OUTFITS . 

For Cycling, Golf and Polo 

Golf Coats 

Cycling Suits . 
COLLARS AND CUFFS 
NECKWEAR . 

The Dress Cravat . 

The Club Tie . 

The Black Bow 

The De Joinville 

Ascot Scarf 

Club and Ascot Stock 

The Four-in-Hand . 

For Summer Wear , 

Piece Silks for Ties 
GLOVES . 

For Evening Dress 

For Business Dress 

For Driving 

For Skating 

For Ladies . 
UNDERWEAR 

Wool, Cotton 

Silk . . , 

Made to Measure 

Abdominal Bands 

Chest Protector fo 



THE HOSIERY 
Bedroom Hose 



r Evening Dress 



PAGE 

3 

10 
ii 

12 
12 
12 
13 

13 
14 
14 
14 
14-15 

J 5 
16 
16 

17 
17 
17 
18 
18 
18 

19 
*9 
*9 
l 9 
20 
20 
20 
20 
21 
21 
22 
22 
21 
22 
*3 



29 



NIGHT ROBES AND PAJAMAS . . .23 

BATHROBES 23 

HANDKERCHIEFS AND MUFFLERS . . 24 

HOUSE JACKETS 25 

HOUSE COATS ....... 26 

RAIN COATS 26 

CANES AND UMBRELLAS . . . .26 

SUSPENDERS . ... f ... 27 
BELTS FOR MEN AND WOMEN . . 27-28 

SHIRT WAISTS, SILK AND COTTON . 27-28 

LEGGINGS 28 

DIRECTIONS FOR WASHING SILK AND 

WOOLEN HOSIERY 30 

DIRECTIONS 

For Washing Silk and Woolen Hosiery. 

Add dissolved yellow soap in the porportion of one pound 
to four gallons of warm (not hot) water, in which place the 
articles to be washed. 

Draw them repeatedly through the hand, but avoid rub- 
bing them. 

When cleansed, wring as dry as possible to remove the 
soap. 

Rinse, first in warm water and again in cold. 

If the articles are colored, throw a little salt in the last 
water to prevent the dye running. 

Wring thoroughly, and dry quickly. 

30 




Printed under the direction 
of Lincoln Bartlett Co. 
46 Jackson Street, Chicago, 
by M, B. Hilly 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




014 064 455 9 




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